Shopping, Cairo Style

Oh, the treasures. So many treasures to be found at the Khan i Khalili, But how to find them. "Good price, for you," the man says as he tries to pull me into his shop. I walk past trying to focus on the task at hand -- finding the beautifully colored, thick Egyptian glass. Alas, there is a shop that draws me. So many lights dangling. Green and blue crystals hanging here. Silver and copper hanging there. A little further in and a whole ceiling is covered with copper and brass lamps of every shape and size.

Just a few doors down the dusty, crowded, narrow street and there it is. Blue glass. Turquoise glass. Red glass. White glass. Pitchers. Glasses. Bowls.

The shop owner, sweating from excursion in the hot shop, reaches for this one and that one, as we ask to see so many. Finally, decisions are made and pounds are exchanged. "Are you happy," the first shop owner, who has escorted me there, asks? "Yes, very happy." A night at the Khan i Khalili comes to an end.

Cairo...on the Nile

Sun sets on the Nile. For a moment, you can block out the honking of horns and the congestion setting over the city and just focus on this beautiful moment. Down below, the city is humming but from here, it's just the pink sun and shimmering river saying goodbye to another day in Egypt.

The Dubai Some Never See

There is the Dubai you see.

And then there is the Dubai that some never see. Away from the bustle, the malls and the beaches created by man, there is the "historic" Dubai nestled along side of the Creek, where charming little art galleries (unfortunately, many are closed on Friday) and cafes are nestled in. Here is where you can find the textile souk, largely Indian shops with pillow cases, pashminas, shawls and scarves of every color and size.

Cross the Creek and you are in the heart of the spice and gold souks. Saffron and frankinscence mingle with vanilla and cardamon. Gold bangles and diamonds blind the eye. Merchants beg you to come to look at handbags and pashminas just down this corridor in the souk.

Despite the heat and humidity, you can find a soul of a city.

Dubai Dreamin'

Mesopotamia. Baghdad. The Tigris River. The words floated on the green and blue map on my screen. We were flying at 41,000 feet en route to Dubai. Hard to believe that just 10 hours before I was saying goodbye at Dulles, giving goodnight kisses to Stefan and Abby who were nestled into their jammies. Then I was off, laptop and presentations in tow, trying not to think about my little ones but the work that awaited.

Now Dubai. A world of contradictions. Modern yet conservative. Liberal yet traditional. After a walk through the massive, crowded Dubai Mall on the start of the weekend here, I'm filled with images of Jimmy Choo, Burberry and Chanel. Yet what sticks most in my mind is the women covered in head to toe black.

Learning, Learning and More Learning

This "new" social media world has me shakin' my head in wonder. What next? Now I've come across (though it's been around for a while) Fora TV...the YouTube for thinking minds. Forget about watching home videos on YouTube and settle in for some discussions on foreign aid, foreign policy and the economy.

South Africa, You Don't Say

I gasped. Not just once, but several times. I held onto the wheel tightly as I rounded the turn. I just had to do it, though I know it was not safe. I had to take a picture of those gorgeous mountain ranges. I was en route from the Cape Town airport to wine country to visit with my friend, Jo. I hadn't seen him in several years and it was going to be a great visit. I didn't anticipate that I would have my breath taken away by the scenery.
We had lunch at a little joint. A bottle of white wine, of course. Or maybe it was two. Jo fired up the barbie for dinner. Guests. More guests. More wine. Friends of mine arrived late into the evening who were also in South Africa. We laughed. Told stories about our Croatia days. We drove up the mountain for brunch on Sunday. Gasps. Many more gasps for air. Now I'm gasping for air again as I look at what Jo has done. This time he has really outdone himself with the Explorer's Club, an exquisite property in the heart of Franschhoek which is a reflection of his travels around the world -- Burma, Thailand, Croatia, etc.

Dubai On the Fly

I'm headed to Dubai next week for work -- en route to Cairo. I'm hoping I'll have at least an hour or two to stop by the souk. On my last visit to Dubai, I spent an afternoon there wandering the various stalls, marveling at the gold shops, buying up some exotic-smelling herbs and even splurged on a diamond ring. I also spent part of my free day at the big mega mall, complete with indoor ski slope. My daughter still loves the cheap, toy cell phone I bought with a picture of head-covered Barbie which plays a Middle Eastern tune of some sort.

I need to check out Cool Travel's Dubai shopping guide. She does a lot of writing for various travel magazines and lived in Dubai for a while so certainly seems to know the ins and outs. I took these pictures during my last trip....

Layover Malaise No More

This is just what I love about the New York Times travel section -- it offers up some great practical advice alongside the "36 Hours in ?" series, hotel and restaurant reviews and other travel odds and ends. Today's article about what to do outside of the airport (yes, I said, outside of the airport) when flying through Frankfurt (dreadful), London (hate the transfer), Amsterdam (second on my list), or Paris (first on my list, even if the airport shops are overpriced) is worth the read.

* Photo courtesy of NYTimes

Feelin' Groovy

Sunglasses made out of wood? What is this world coming to? I stumbled across these groovy shades, ShWoods, today on Daily Candy. Perhaps something for your travel bag?

Work that Matters

As most of you know, I work for an international development consulting firm. Huh, you ask? No worries...I get that response all the time and it's completely natural and valid.

I'm sure if I said Save the Children most of you would know the sort of work they do around the world. Their name pretty much says it all. However, it's hard to grasp the notion that there are development actors out there also doing much life-saving to reintegrate child soldiers, for instance, or help establish citizen groups to fight for human rights. The NGOs do a much better job of getting their messages out and truly marketing through powerful methods, including celebrity endorsements and ad campaigns. Take the Rewrite the Futures campaign which I stumbled across today on YouTube -- it's so very poignant and real.

Admittedly, outside of the non-profit sphere, we've been much less inclined to put our face out there; while the NGOs need to do it to survive financially. But as more and more assaults are taking place against those of us doing good work around the world (we're the "bad" contractors, mind you), we've got to be much more outspoken.

Paris Shopping

I know...it's about Paris again. I haven't given up on a trip there very soon...probably spring time when I can hop over the pond with Abby. How apropos that the last issue of T and L (my favorite travel mag) has a Stylish Traveler article: Shopping: Paris, 3Ways in which the author, one lucky gal, is taken through the streets, shops and flea markets of Paris by three insiders. Suffice it to say I want her job in my after life. The photo above is from Merci. (merci)

Big Apple Shopping

I love Time Out. When I lived in the Balkans, it was one of my go-to guides for restaurants and shopping. I found some great little places in Budapest using it years ago. So, I am now delving into it for my girls' weekend in NYC (with my almost six-year old) later this month to find the best shopping locales for us gals. Reading it now.

New Season...New Reason

Has it really been since July that I have posted? Breaking all of the old rules about blogs and social media, in general? Breaking my own rules about tapping into my creative self. I owe an apology to those who stop here occasionally.

Anyway, Brad just came back from Uganda. Kampala for a few days to be exact but with stops in Nairobi and Amsterdam enroute. He was able to meet up for breakfast with our good friend, Marcus, who e-mails me for the Netherlands that his new company has provided a "loaner bike" for him to use to get to meetings. Love that.

So, here's a little ode to Brad's trip with a photo or two.

Opatija...again

Do you think it's possible to become a travel writer overnight? I often ask myself this question when I come across an article, which I should have written, about my dear Croatia. This one comes from the Times of London and is written about Opatija, that wonderful seaside getaway near Zagreb dotted with pastel-colored villas, which were once home to Austro-Hungarian royalty and such.

I've been to both Villa Astra and Casa Oraj, which the writer mentions in the article. In fact, we used to spend wonderful Thanksgiving weekends in the stone dining room of Oraj, lounging over numerous bottles of Croatian wine and turkey with an interesting set of international friends, many of whom didn't understand, or need to, the traditions of that American holiday. Villa Astra is likewise a gem, with its views of the Adriatic and hospitable owner, who has restored it and its grounds to pristine condition.

Now, let me get serious about becoming a travel writer.

Back at the Beach

How did it happen? How is it already post July 4th? I don't even feel like I've eased into summer...it is here and I'm not prepared. Soon I'll be embarking full-time for Fire Island....ccol breezes, swimming in the bay, sand between my toes, falling asleep on our window seat...grilled fish...sundown cocktails...

Travel Schmavel

This is what is keeping me grounded these days.

Women and Iran

I love Anne Applebaum's clarity. Her ability to dissect an issue. Her laser-like writing style.

In today's edition of the Washington Post, she writes about Iran's women and their strength not only in the current upheaval against the regime, but behind the scene for decades in opposition to build momentum and organize against repression. Ultimately, she concludes that "...regimes that repress the civil and human rights of half their population are inherently unstable." Exactly.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/06/22/AR2009062202387.html

Photo courtesy of the New York Times.

Happy Anniversary

Six years? Wow. Yes, it's been six years ago today that we were married at Casa Cornacchi in Tuscany. Just looking at a few photos of that amazing, 16th century villa brings back a flood of memories and a rush of feelings about my husband -- not to mention my friends from Eastern Europe and my family, who joined me there during that magical week in 2003.

Democracy, Iranian Style

As I sit and look at the photos tonight from Reuters and AP, I feel a sense of deja vu from my days in the Balkans and Milosevic's attempts to steal elections, which came to a tragic end with his extradiction and eventual death in a small cell at the Hague.

Women facing off against riot-gear clad police officers. Crowds in the tens of thousands amassing on the main squares. Desperate police officers wielding batons against those frustrated by their attempt to register dissatisfaction with the current illiberal regime. No doubt change will come to Iran, perhaps not as quickly as many had hoped....but this is the beginning of the end. It seems these are the largest public demonstrations since 1979. Fuel was added to the fire earlier today when the country's top cleric called for an investigation into the allegations of vote rigging.

Photo courtesy of New York Times

Ah, Motherhood

Has it really been since April 20th that I've written? I opened my site tonight, after a long absence, and was quite dismayed that it's been soooo long. Back at work....back to the grind so living vicariously through friends right now. Sharon in Prague. Amanda in Kabul. Willeke in Amsterdam. Majada in Paris. Brenda in Rome. Alistair in Juba. Jo in Franschoek.

Anyway, I'll be back soon with some travel tales and adventures. My passport is gathering dust and that's not good.

Slovenia Chic

Yes, I said Slovenia. Oh, how I wish I had become a travel writer a few years back when living in former Yugoslavia and Croatia and traveling throughout the region. I would have plenty of fodder for travel articles about weekends spent in steamy saunas and plunging in cold, mountain-fed pools in Bled, golfing with the Slovenia Alps framing the shots, delicious dinners and scrumptious Movia wines and much, much more. Now, I'm reading all about new upscale tourism in Slovenia in the likes of the NY Times. And doesn't this hotel look like something out of Manhattan, not the backwoods of that lovely country?

the Latest Little Traveler

Happy 12 weeks, Stefan!

Oh Those Brits

Have just discovered this lovely reproduction poster-- created by the British Government's Ministry of Information in 1939. Our neighbors across the pond certainly had a way with words. Maybe Obama could use this now.

Montreal...oui, oui

Just returned from our week in Vermont -- and 2 days in Montreal. What a wonderful "European" city right in our backyard. Loved hearing French. Loved the little cupcake shop we found down the street from our hotel.

Loved our hotel, Place des Armes, smack dab in the middle of vieux Montreal, and its wine and cheese happy hour and exposed brick walls and fireplace in our room. Loved the little bistro we found for lunch where it felt right to order a glass of wine and sit leisurely over a great cup of cappucino. A bientot.

Bali Dreamin'

It's spring break season and we're headed north...not south...nor as far flung as Southeast Asia. But I can always dream. And so I've been thinking about years past spent in Bali, during those adventuresome months I spent working and living in East Timor. Sunny afternoons spent overlooking the sea at Ku De Ta....with a glass of wine in hand and nothing to think about except where to go for dinner later that night. Jazzy music and a warm breeze on the outside porch at the Living Room. A totally self-indulgent spa treatment at the Villas. I was rereading my journals a few nights ago from those days....nice to travel back, if only in my head.

When in Paris...

Ah, Paris in the spring. Walking along the Seine. A pain au chocolat. A fresh crusty baguette. Strolling the quaint streets of Ile St. Louis. I wish I could say I'd soon be doing it all but instead an old friend from college is going in April and has asked for some advice. So here are my brief recommendations for a few days in Paris (there are enough guides out there to fill a library!), in the spring, gathered from many years of visits and the wonderful time I spent living there, taking French lessons and marveling at the depth of the city of light:

The Louvre: Clearly a must stop for anyone going to Paris....but I recommend hitting just one wing or area like the Roman ruins, rather than trying to do it all. Mona Lisa is there, of course...don't be surprised by the small size of the actual painting! I would also highly recommend the Musee d'Orsay -- housed in an old train station, it is filled with light and an amazing collection of Impressionist paintings.

Ile St. Louis: This is my favorite neighborhood (actually a small island) in Paris....this is where I would want to live, preferrably overlooking the Seine. This is where my husband and I have stayed on both of our trips, including the one where he romanced me just before we were engaged so it has very special memories. Have an ice cream at Berthillon while looking upon the back of Notre Dame.

Notre Dame: The gargoyles...such an architectural feat. This is another iconic Paris stop.

The Eiffel Tower: Need I say more? If this is a first-time visit, then you obviously have to see and go up the Eiffel Tower, the tallest structure in the world when it was built in 1889....but time it to arrive just before dusk so that you get to the top and have a great view of city...and then get to enjoy it light up, which it does every ten minutes, after dusk.

The Picasso Museum: In Le Marais, a quaint neighborhood of Jewish delis and great shoppingand cafes, this museum is one of my favorite stops in Paris. Picasso was a bit genius, a bit wacko, but mostly hedonistic.

Place des Vosges: This is the most beautiful, symmetrical square in Paris (Le Marais) and one can almost imagine the gentreed intrigue and liaisons that took place here. It is also home to the Victor Hugo Museum and wonderful art galleries. I like sitting in the park in the center just people watching and staring in awe at the architecture of the place.

Luxembourg Gardens: This is a peaceful spot for resting your feet or taking in an art exhibit. Children can also rent model boats and sail them. The Marionnettes du Luxembourg is also considered one of the best -- have to do that with my daughter someday soon.

A boulangerie: Dart into any Parisian bakery and it will not disappoint. Order a pain au chocolat or a sandwich -- my favorite is pain au jambon avec fromage (ham and cheese). Magnifique!

Bofinger or Brasserie Lipp: A brasserie is a must, and these two are quintessentially Parisian. Splurge on oysters and champagne and then sauerkraut. The stained glass windows, black uniformed waiters with white aprons and overflowing trays of seafood are a must see, not to mention that sitting in one of these having a late night meal makes you feel like you are REALLY in Paris, the greatest city in the world.

Shopping: Bon Marche is the oldest department store in Paris and it can be a one-stop adventure. But I like Le Marais. My favorite blouse store, Anne Fontaine, is located there. Care to pick me up a new blouse? Size 38, thanks.

What else can one say about Paris? It is magical, seductive, intriguing and a place where one can simply "be." Take le Metro...many of its stops are eye candy given the Art Nouveau tiling, etc. Walk and breath in the city, feasting your eyes on the upscale boutiques along rue Fbg St. Honore, stopping for a glass of wine at an outdoor cafe, browsing over old books at markets along the Seine... at night the boats along the Seine also cast a magical glow. For more advice, check out Gourmet (posted on my blog) or Travel and Leisure's wonderful guides to this city.

In Search of the Perfect Travel Bag

I have to admit I have my collection of travel bags -- a roomy leather shoulder bag I bought in Italy years ago, a dark blue patent leather and canvas bag I splurged on at Barney's Coop and the brown and white geometric design canvas bag with matching small purse I bought up in Mass visiting my BFF, Debra. This is in addition to all the small luggage my husband and I have amassed. BUT....I'm always in search of another. And these are patterns and fabrics are too great from Jane Marvel. Should I indulge? So tempting.

Foodie Paradise

Well, we're not heading south for spring break. I guess it's sort of like the new "staycation" as we are headed to our cozy place in Vermont, in an attempt to save a bit of dough and get some use of it, since we haven't been there in months. More likely, we'll blow our budget eating and drinking well. We are getting ready to book at the Hen of the Woods in Waterbury, which was recently written up in the NY Times for its great atmosphere (an old flour mill) and local approach to food. Sounds like our kind of local place. I can taste the sheep cheese gnocchi now....and hope there is a warm nook where we'll dine.

Live Locally, Lust Locally

I love Kimpton Hotels...they have a funky, fun feel to them and the in-hotel restaurants are usually great foodie stops....not to mention the creative, colorful in-room decor. Now, we are getting our very own just down the road in Old Town, Alexandria -- just minutes from our house -- to add to those already in D.C. The Lorien Hotel and Spa looks yummy and here's what they have to say about it and it's fabu restaurant, presided over by chef Robert Wiedmaier who already has a few haunts which serve Belgian-American cuisine in D.C.:

"Led by the distinctive vision of Chef Robert Wiedmaier, approachable, fun food and wine are integral to Lorien Hotel & Spa's vision of the perfect boutique hotel. With one of the finest dining destinations in the area paired with a casual neighborhood favorite as well as a place to buy great wine and cheese, fabulous variety graces your stay. Adjacent to Lorien Hotel & Spa, BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier and BRABO Tasting Room feature the award-winning cuisine of Chef Wiedmaier in these very unique venues."

Next stop for dinner? BRABO.

Boutique Hotel Junkies Unite

Finally -- I've found another soul in search of kid-friendly boutique hotels. I've been on a quest since my daugher, Abigail, was born -- when I discovered that some of the nicer hotels did not take children under the age of 12. Having been single for most of my adult life, I can understand the consternation felt by holiday sun seekers who desire nothing more than peace and quiet near a pool with a cocktail -- not splashing American toddlers. So, it was with incredible amazement and delight that I stumbled upon Baby Friendly Boltholes, a site that caters to the likes of me. It looks like it offers the types of properties throughout Europe that I would have organized a weekend trip to back in my old, single days living in Croatia. Anyone remember those???

First you met the prince....now the princess

And, yeah, Polaroids are back...through a groovy on-line program I just downloaded!!

Welcome to the World, Stefan Coulter Johnson!

A Woman's Dilemma

Alas the dilemma of being working women and childbirth rears its head again today -- after French Justice Minister Rachida Dati returned to work five days after having her Cesarean section. This raises many dilemmas for me. I'm caught between relating to her professional responsibility (it was not just any meeting she returned to but the first Cabinet meeting of the year with a focus on the justice agenda) and feeling that she is somehow undermining her commitment to family and the precious time which we never have with our newborns again -- but often don't realize until it is too late. Women's groups in France, accustomed to more paid maternity leave than here (of course!), are upset, and in many ways I agree. If she only needs to take off five days, what does this signal to other employers about what is needed by women to care for their newborns and own physical and mental health?

Like most issues dealing with the work/family balance, I find it to be a personal decision -- unique for each woman, family and child. And employer. But I know the reality is that our society still undervalues women who choose to stay at home longer. And if most of us were given the choice of more paid maternity leave, we'd readily volunteer.

Photo courtesy of Reuters.

New Year, New Administration, New Baby

It's going to be a historic few days in the nation's capital. Those of us living in the "zone" near the Capitol, are in for a bit of disruption...closed bridges, monstrous traffic, blocked roads, posses of tour buses, not to mention the crowds anticipated in the millions. We're a bit constrained in our movements not due to the traffic but my 9th month of pregnancy and impending due date of January 23rd.

In the meantime, I'm still waiting to see who the Obama Administration gives the nod to for USAID Administrator. Hilary Clinton was on the Hill earlier this week, testifying before the Senate Foreign Relations Committee and had quite a bit to say about levels of funding for foreign aid and her commitment to it as part of the "smart power" arsenal. I think we're going to see more funding devoted to health and girls' education, two areas she strongly supported as First Lady.

As for my own health, please send any karma my way to have this baby this weekend. I've thought more and more about all of the women in the developing world who face this week and their delivery with trepidation due to poor medical conditions and pre-natal care. On that score, I feel particularly lucky.

Happy NewYear

Happy 2009! Pregnancy; work trips to Jordan, Australia, Thailand, the DR and UK; a new Australia-based company and new corporate position; the beginning of our house renovations; and the sad death of my father at 74. Yet, as trite as it sounds, with every ending, there IS a new beginning as my son will be born 9 months after my father's death. I'm looking forward to this year and the arrival of our little one in the next few weeks...and all the chaos that chapter in our life brings.

In the meantime, it's hard not to be reminder of how fortunate we are -- and the plight of so many others around the world less fortunate, as Nick Kristoff points out in his column today about trafficked sex workers in Cambodia. Like him, I'm amazed by the courage of the young women who broken out of these bonds -- but sadly, the odds are still overwhelmingly against those forced into this horrific businesses. Here's just one local organization trying to make a difference, that I encourage you to check out. The founder, Somaly Mam, has been recognized internationally for her courage -- and I need to pick up a copy of this book, The Road of Lost Innocence, which tells her story in poignant terms.