I went to the souk on my last day in Amman, not so much to buy anything but to wonder past its limitless items -- shoes, socks, gold chains and rings, dresses, blankets, dried spices and herbs, plastic tubs. And some interesting women's fashions. I find places like Jordan a bit confusing.
It's not all one way or the other -- extremely conservative or extremely liberal, which would make the study of women's choices and decisions about covering their heads and/or faces so much easier.
Some of these ladies, particularly in the drab, featureless "coats," looked particularly stoic. I wonder if they felt what many women in Amman felt, who were at home and not out amongst the souk where I walked in my western dress.
As for me, I was mostly interested in those gowns with lots of jangling coins and bright colors.