Slovenia Chic

Yes, I said Slovenia. Oh, how I wish I had become a travel writer a few years back when living in former Yugoslavia and Croatia and traveling throughout the region. I would have plenty of fodder for travel articles about weekends spent in steamy saunas and plunging in cold, mountain-fed pools in Bled, golfing with the Slovenia Alps framing the shots, delicious dinners and scrumptious Movia wines and much, much more. Now, I'm reading all about new upscale tourism in Slovenia in the likes of the NY Times. And doesn't this hotel look like something out of Manhattan, not the backwoods of that lovely country?

the Latest Little Traveler

Happy 12 weeks, Stefan!

Oh Those Brits

Have just discovered this lovely reproduction poster-- created by the British Government's Ministry of Information in 1939. Our neighbors across the pond certainly had a way with words. Maybe Obama could use this now.

Montreal...oui, oui

Just returned from our week in Vermont -- and 2 days in Montreal. What a wonderful "European" city right in our backyard. Loved hearing French. Loved the little cupcake shop we found down the street from our hotel.

Loved our hotel, Place des Armes, smack dab in the middle of vieux Montreal, and its wine and cheese happy hour and exposed brick walls and fireplace in our room. Loved the little bistro we found for lunch where it felt right to order a glass of wine and sit leisurely over a great cup of cappucino. A bientot.

Bali Dreamin'

It's spring break season and we're headed north...not south...nor as far flung as Southeast Asia. But I can always dream. And so I've been thinking about years past spent in Bali, during those adventuresome months I spent working and living in East Timor. Sunny afternoons spent overlooking the sea at Ku De Ta....with a glass of wine in hand and nothing to think about except where to go for dinner later that night. Jazzy music and a warm breeze on the outside porch at the Living Room. A totally self-indulgent spa treatment at the Villas. I was rereading my journals a few nights ago from those days....nice to travel back, if only in my head.

When in Paris...

Ah, Paris in the spring. Walking along the Seine. A pain au chocolat. A fresh crusty baguette. Strolling the quaint streets of Ile St. Louis. I wish I could say I'd soon be doing it all but instead an old friend from college is going in April and has asked for some advice. So here are my brief recommendations for a few days in Paris (there are enough guides out there to fill a library!), in the spring, gathered from many years of visits and the wonderful time I spent living there, taking French lessons and marveling at the depth of the city of light:

The Louvre: Clearly a must stop for anyone going to Paris....but I recommend hitting just one wing or area like the Roman ruins, rather than trying to do it all. Mona Lisa is there, of course...don't be surprised by the small size of the actual painting! I would also highly recommend the Musee d'Orsay -- housed in an old train station, it is filled with light and an amazing collection of Impressionist paintings.

Ile St. Louis: This is my favorite neighborhood (actually a small island) in Paris....this is where I would want to live, preferrably overlooking the Seine. This is where my husband and I have stayed on both of our trips, including the one where he romanced me just before we were engaged so it has very special memories. Have an ice cream at Berthillon while looking upon the back of Notre Dame.

Notre Dame: The gargoyles...such an architectural feat. This is another iconic Paris stop.

The Eiffel Tower: Need I say more? If this is a first-time visit, then you obviously have to see and go up the Eiffel Tower, the tallest structure in the world when it was built in 1889....but time it to arrive just before dusk so that you get to the top and have a great view of city...and then get to enjoy it light up, which it does every ten minutes, after dusk.

The Picasso Museum: In Le Marais, a quaint neighborhood of Jewish delis and great shoppingand cafes, this museum is one of my favorite stops in Paris. Picasso was a bit genius, a bit wacko, but mostly hedonistic.

Place des Vosges: This is the most beautiful, symmetrical square in Paris (Le Marais) and one can almost imagine the gentreed intrigue and liaisons that took place here. It is also home to the Victor Hugo Museum and wonderful art galleries. I like sitting in the park in the center just people watching and staring in awe at the architecture of the place.

Luxembourg Gardens: This is a peaceful spot for resting your feet or taking in an art exhibit. Children can also rent model boats and sail them. The Marionnettes du Luxembourg is also considered one of the best -- have to do that with my daughter someday soon.

A boulangerie: Dart into any Parisian bakery and it will not disappoint. Order a pain au chocolat or a sandwich -- my favorite is pain au jambon avec fromage (ham and cheese). Magnifique!

Bofinger or Brasserie Lipp: A brasserie is a must, and these two are quintessentially Parisian. Splurge on oysters and champagne and then sauerkraut. The stained glass windows, black uniformed waiters with white aprons and overflowing trays of seafood are a must see, not to mention that sitting in one of these having a late night meal makes you feel like you are REALLY in Paris, the greatest city in the world.

Shopping: Bon Marche is the oldest department store in Paris and it can be a one-stop adventure. But I like Le Marais. My favorite blouse store, Anne Fontaine, is located there. Care to pick me up a new blouse? Size 38, thanks.

What else can one say about Paris? It is magical, seductive, intriguing and a place where one can simply "be." Take le Metro...many of its stops are eye candy given the Art Nouveau tiling, etc. Walk and breath in the city, feasting your eyes on the upscale boutiques along rue Fbg St. Honore, stopping for a glass of wine at an outdoor cafe, browsing over old books at markets along the Seine... at night the boats along the Seine also cast a magical glow. For more advice, check out Gourmet (posted on my blog) or Travel and Leisure's wonderful guides to this city.

In Search of the Perfect Travel Bag

I have to admit I have my collection of travel bags -- a roomy leather shoulder bag I bought in Italy years ago, a dark blue patent leather and canvas bag I splurged on at Barney's Coop and the brown and white geometric design canvas bag with matching small purse I bought up in Mass visiting my BFF, Debra. This is in addition to all the small luggage my husband and I have amassed. BUT....I'm always in search of another. And these are patterns and fabrics are too great from Jane Marvel. Should I indulge? So tempting.

Foodie Paradise

Well, we're not heading south for spring break. I guess it's sort of like the new "staycation" as we are headed to our cozy place in Vermont, in an attempt to save a bit of dough and get some use of it, since we haven't been there in months. More likely, we'll blow our budget eating and drinking well. We are getting ready to book at the Hen of the Woods in Waterbury, which was recently written up in the NY Times for its great atmosphere (an old flour mill) and local approach to food. Sounds like our kind of local place. I can taste the sheep cheese gnocchi now....and hope there is a warm nook where we'll dine.

Live Locally, Lust Locally

I love Kimpton Hotels...they have a funky, fun feel to them and the in-hotel restaurants are usually great foodie stops....not to mention the creative, colorful in-room decor. Now, we are getting our very own just down the road in Old Town, Alexandria -- just minutes from our house -- to add to those already in D.C. The Lorien Hotel and Spa looks yummy and here's what they have to say about it and it's fabu restaurant, presided over by chef Robert Wiedmaier who already has a few haunts which serve Belgian-American cuisine in D.C.:

"Led by the distinctive vision of Chef Robert Wiedmaier, approachable, fun food and wine are integral to Lorien Hotel & Spa's vision of the perfect boutique hotel. With one of the finest dining destinations in the area paired with a casual neighborhood favorite as well as a place to buy great wine and cheese, fabulous variety graces your stay. Adjacent to Lorien Hotel & Spa, BRABO by Robert Wiedmaier and BRABO Tasting Room feature the award-winning cuisine of Chef Wiedmaier in these very unique venues."

Next stop for dinner? BRABO.

Boutique Hotel Junkies Unite

Finally -- I've found another soul in search of kid-friendly boutique hotels. I've been on a quest since my daugher, Abigail, was born -- when I discovered that some of the nicer hotels did not take children under the age of 12. Having been single for most of my adult life, I can understand the consternation felt by holiday sun seekers who desire nothing more than peace and quiet near a pool with a cocktail -- not splashing American toddlers. So, it was with incredible amazement and delight that I stumbled upon Baby Friendly Boltholes, a site that caters to the likes of me. It looks like it offers the types of properties throughout Europe that I would have organized a weekend trip to back in my old, single days living in Croatia. Anyone remember those???

First you met the prince....now the princess

And, yeah, Polaroids are back...through a groovy on-line program I just downloaded!!

Welcome to the World, Stefan Coulter Johnson!

A Woman's Dilemma

Alas the dilemma of being working women and childbirth rears its head again today -- after French Justice Minister Rachida Dati returned to work five days after having her Cesarean section. This raises many dilemmas for me. I'm caught between relating to her professional responsibility (it was not just any meeting she returned to but the first Cabinet meeting of the year with a focus on the justice agenda) and feeling that she is somehow undermining her commitment to family and the precious time which we never have with our newborns again -- but often don't realize until it is too late. Women's groups in France, accustomed to more paid maternity leave than here (of course!), are upset, and in many ways I agree. If she only needs to take off five days, what does this signal to other employers about what is needed by women to care for their newborns and own physical and mental health?

Like most issues dealing with the work/family balance, I find it to be a personal decision -- unique for each woman, family and child. And employer. But I know the reality is that our society still undervalues women who choose to stay at home longer. And if most of us were given the choice of more paid maternity leave, we'd readily volunteer.

Photo courtesy of Reuters.

New Year, New Administration, New Baby

It's going to be a historic few days in the nation's capital. Those of us living in the "zone" near the Capitol, are in for a bit of disruption...closed bridges, monstrous traffic, blocked roads, posses of tour buses, not to mention the crowds anticipated in the millions. We're a bit constrained in our movements not due to the traffic but my 9th month of pregnancy and impending due date of January 23rd.

In the meantime, I'm still waiting to see who the Obama Administration gives the nod to for USAID Administrator. Hilary Clinton was on the Hill earlier this week, testifying before the Senate Foreign Relations Committee and had quite a bit to say about levels of funding for foreign aid and her commitment to it as part of the "smart power" arsenal. I think we're going to see more funding devoted to health and girls' education, two areas she strongly supported as First Lady.

As for my own health, please send any karma my way to have this baby this weekend. I've thought more and more about all of the women in the developing world who face this week and their delivery with trepidation due to poor medical conditions and pre-natal care. On that score, I feel particularly lucky.

Happy NewYear

Happy 2009! Pregnancy; work trips to Jordan, Australia, Thailand, the DR and UK; a new Australia-based company and new corporate position; the beginning of our house renovations; and the sad death of my father at 74. Yet, as trite as it sounds, with every ending, there IS a new beginning as my son will be born 9 months after my father's death. I'm looking forward to this year and the arrival of our little one in the next few weeks...and all the chaos that chapter in our life brings.

In the meantime, it's hard not to be reminder of how fortunate we are -- and the plight of so many others around the world less fortunate, as Nick Kristoff points out in his column today about trafficked sex workers in Cambodia. Like him, I'm amazed by the courage of the young women who broken out of these bonds -- but sadly, the odds are still overwhelmingly against those forced into this horrific businesses. Here's just one local organization trying to make a difference, that I encourage you to check out. The founder, Somaly Mam, has been recognized internationally for her courage -- and I need to pick up a copy of this book, The Road of Lost Innocence, which tells her story in poignant terms.

Cambodia -- 7 years later

It was 7 years ago this December that my BFF and I were on a three-week chic vacation throughout Thailand and Cambodia, complete with daily massages, shopping adventures for Thai silk and celadon, a beachfront luxury resort in Ko Lanta, late nights on the beach with a lovely crowd of British "boys" and many a drunken evening throughout. Ah, what great memories from our single girl days. Sniff, sniff.

From what I've read today in the New York Times Travel Section, 36 Hours in Siem Reap, Siem Reap is not the place that it was back then. We stayed in a run down hotel and had a comical, bureaucratic entrance to the country at the minuscule airport, but it didn't dampen our spirits for the awe-inspiring visits to the temples and ruins. Today, it seems, you can stay in some very cool, relaxing places and a thriving art scene is taking hold, not to mention numerous places for "foodies." Just check out the Viroth hotel... looks very trendy chic.

Now, the only question is when can I get back?

Photo courtesy of New York Times

So Many Ways to Give

It's holiday time....I'm having a bit of a hard time this year getting in the spirit due to the dust flying around my house, washer and dryer in my living room, growing tummy and overwhelming list at work. But I am trying to be more conscientious about giving this year when there is so much need at home and around the world. So, here are just a few ideas:

1. Give to World Vision through a catalogue that features goats, chickens and cows for families in the developing world. Might seem funny to purchase a goat but you only have to read one story like the one Nicholas Kristoff wrote in the New York Times a few months ago about the impact one such animal can make to an entire family's livelihood to know it is the right thing to do. You can also donate food aid, for children's education and clothing. I did this for my sisters and in-laws and each donation will be made in their name.

2. Pangea is Greek for "all lands". Pangeamarket.com, supported by the International Finance Corporation (IFC), brings together traditional high quality handicrafts made by artisans in developing countries. This is the first time that most of these products have been available for purchase online and in our Washington, DC store. Come in and purchase these beautiful, fair trade crafts, jewelry, home décor, accessories and more, learn about the products’ origins and know that your purchase helps create sustainable livelihoods for artisans in Asia, Africa and Latin America.

3. Give to a local food bank, like the Capital Are Food Bank.

4. UNICEF Gifts: From holiday cards to kids toys to gifts that help children around the world, this site is worth checking out.

and it's Vermont again...

Another day. Another article about our favorite home away from home. Vermont. With so much focus on hard economic conditions, apparently the ski resorts in Vermont are going to benefit from an increase in travelers who won't be trekking out West. Travel and Leisure has just written a lovely article on Warren -- one of our favorite haunts and home to our good friend, Judy. We love the Pitcher Inn, where we spent a magical Valentine's Day evening...and the Vermont country store...and the overall small ski town feel. We recently had dinner at Sugarbush and are planning to get Abigail on downhill skis this season at Mad River Glen.

So Much to Be Thankful For

Thanks again to Nicholas Kristoff's 2 latest columns on women in Pakistan who suffer unspeakable acts of gang rape, honor killings carried out by siblings and acid incidents in which their faces are purposefully disfigured by their husbands, I'm able to put the Thanksgiving holiday -- and so much to be thankful for -- into proper global perspective. Of course, I'm thankful for Brad, Abby, Nathaniel and the little one to be (as some of you know -- still no name), but I'm even more thankful for a system, no matter how flawed, that neither would allow or fail to prosecute these types of crimes.

We can't change these societies overnight, but we can continue to support the international development work taking place there and the work of groups like Mercy Corps, CARE, World Vision and so many others which are working to empower women and reform justice systems which incredibly allow these acts to go unpunished. Or contribute directly to local groups like the Progressive Women's Association of Pakistan or the Mukhtar Mai Women’s Welfare Organization which are bravely fighting this injustice and working to protect women.

Those French Do It Again

First it was the election of a handsome President. Then came the Presidential marriage to a hot Italian heiress/model/chanteuse. Never mind that French women seem to be able to eat and drink with abandon and always look stylish. Or that French food is a foodie's fantasy. Now comes more insult to injury -- regarding French maternity leave -- a system which apparently allows those French femmes to not have to choose between work and family. I must admit I'm envious. A bit peeved. And yes, ready to move to Paris, as I've always wanted to do. As I contemplate my 12 weeks of essentially unpaid leave, I'm reading to board the plane for Charles de Gaulle.