Amman Fashion

I went to the souk on my last day in Amman, not so much to buy anything but to wonder past its limitless items -- shoes, socks, gold chains and rings, dresses, blankets, dried spices and herbs, plastic tubs.  And some interesting women's fashions.  I find places like Jordan a bit confusing.  

It's not all one way or the other -- extremely conservative or extremely liberal, which would make the study of women's choices and decisions about covering their heads and/or faces so much easier.

Some of these ladies, particularly in the drab, featureless "coats," looked particularly stoic.  I wonder if they felt what many women in Amman felt, who were at home and not out amongst the souk where I walked in my western dress.

As for me, I was mostly interested in those gowns with lots of jangling coins and bright colors.

Day 2, Amman

My colleague, Steve, went out today to do what I love to do -- visit a local village, eat a homecooked meal and interact with the "real" people. Unfortunately, I was stuck in a hotel conference room.

He is filming a short video about a community water project in Jordan.  Jordan has severe water constraints -- it is the 4th dryest country in the world.  What does that mean? Rivers are drying up.  Crops are dying.  People don't have drinking water.  Many have traditionally felt that it was in "Allah's hands."

But one project funded by USAID is allowing commuities to make their own decisions about rain collection points -- to feed livestock, to provide fresh drinking water and to water crops.

Last night, we sat with 2 Jordanians who work on the project -- it was inspiring.  This is exactly the type of project we should be investing in as tax payers.

Wanderlusting in Jordan

Jordan snuck up on me on the calendar.  And then I was off.  On the plane...over to London...a nice stop at Terminal 1...and then on another plane to Amman which would leave me in a sleep-induced haze as I arrived to the throngs of European tourists and WANA conference attendees. 

But there awaits the beautiful city of Amman. Its white washed facades. Its dry heat.  Its desert feel.  Its warm people and wonderful food.

My time here is short.  My free time even shorter. How will I fill it in between training at this conference?

Perhaps looking for more of this simple beauty.

Visiting the Queen

So in a few days, we'll be off to London. Frankly, I'd rather be heading to Paris or a developing country but it's a work thing so I'm going to combine one last hurrah with work. Tonight, I was reminiscing about our great trip to Jordan in June -- an overnight in the desert, visit to the Red Sea, amazing day spent at Petra and fabbbbb-u-lous Middle Eastern fare. Not sure I ever posted these photos so thought I'd share them.

Jordan warmth and hospitality

Despite our hilarious Bedouin "experience" which I wrote about yesterday, we had a wonderful week in Jordan. The warmth and hospitality of the Jordanian people is truly wonderful. My daughter, Abigail, was truly the biggest beneficiary....everywhere we went she attracted attention, small gifts and inquiries about her name. By the end of the week, she told me that she wished "they would quit patting her on the head."

One evening we returned to the Hyatt to find a large wedding underway -- we were told it was two famous Jordanian families being joined. Abigail was intrigued by undertaking and so we ventured to the door of the monstrous ballroom, only to be waved in by several of the guests with warm smiles who inquired about where we were from. The bridge and groom came by a few minutes later and were thrilled to see our little blonde girl looking on in awe.

Wadi Rum Disco Tent Camp

Imagine the mystery. A night under the stars in southern Jordan spent with Bedouins who have roved these sands for centuries. A simple tent and a good nights sleep after a delicious locally prepared meal....

Well, that's what we envisioned. But, alas, as I found out last week the tourism industry in Jordan still has some, uh, development to experience....

After a roving ride through the desert which was magnificent when the guides drove away from the other 6 or 7 trucks, we arrived back to our tent camp (think refugee camp without the refugees) to find 4 large tour buses, pulsing Jordanian music and a rambunctious crowd of revelers who were prepared to dance the night away. Now, mind you, that would have been fine some 20 years ago but with a four year old, loud pounding music until midnight was just not my cup of tea...nor was the mass of humanity.

Alas, we settled down in our tent and hunkered down until I could stand it no more. With visions of a lynch mob returning to our tent after my tirade, I nevertheless put aside worries of an international incident and found an English speaking guide who assured me that the music would go off...which it did.

Fresh after five hours of sleep, we snuck out of the camp at 6:00 a.m. enroute to more adventures at Petra. As for my visions of a romantic Bedouin tent camp under a full moon eating lamb and sipping tea, perhaps it's out there somewhere waiting for my visit.

In Jordan

Sorry, dear readers...I know it's been a long hiatus. But I'm in Amman, Jordan now and reinvigorated about travel and feeding my wanderlusting spirit. I'll write and post more in the next few days. Tomorrow, off to Petra and the Dead Sea.